Paris Men's Fashion Week
The opening black-and-white looks in the spring Lanvin show on Sunday
set a mood for the precise message that followed. White suits with
paper-thin black leather vests or shirts, a sleek black suit in a
slightly wrinkled fabric shown, sockless, with a narrow black tie
against clean white cotton: Alber Elbaz and Lanvin’s men’s fashion
director, Lucas Ossendrijver, meant business.
They banished last season’s color, at least until a dash of pastel pink and blue at the end — and then not so very much. The suits were dead simple. The collection’s many renditions of full-cut trousers worn with blousy shirts — sleeves rolled up, some with sheer elements — looked at once macho and graceful. Military meets ballet. Mr. Ossendrijver also tackled the season’s themes of transparency and fabrics with glossy, crinkled surfaces. Indeed, few designers did them better.
They banished last season’s color, at least until a dash of pastel pink and blue at the end — and then not so very much. The suits were dead simple. The collection’s many renditions of full-cut trousers worn with blousy shirts — sleeves rolled up, some with sheer elements — looked at once macho and graceful. Military meets ballet. Mr. Ossendrijver also tackled the season’s themes of transparency and fabrics with glossy, crinkled surfaces. Indeed, few designers did them better.
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